Getting a Grip

 There was a time in my archery career when I was guilty of choking my bow. I didn't know the act of doing so was a heinous crime to my shooting evolution, but that's how we learn, right?

A decade ago a trend existed amongst bow manufacturers to incorporate high wrist grips into many beginner bows. I cannot say whether or not a high-wrist grip--a large wooden or composite grip resembling a turtle shell--truly affects a bows accuracy, but I can relay the affect moving away from them had on my own shooting.

Shooting form and the grip

Archery is a sport of rigidity. The human musculature allows for the body to nearly lock into a rigid form to support the weight of a bow at full-draw. For example, the top photo is of myself with a well-tuned Limbsaver Proton at the appropriate draw length. The rigid, "locking" effect is visible from where my release hand notches into place behind my jaw bone. Locking also occurs down my nearly-straight left "bow" arm, which supplies ample tension during the shot (hence back-tension shooting!). There is, however, one place you do not want rigidity in your shot: the grip.

Grip evolution

Many new bow manufacturers have switched riser designs to a low-wrist style of grip (see photo of my new PSE DNA's nearly non-existent grip on right).

Low-wrist grip's allow for a larger surface area of the palm, essentially the "life line" running down you hand, to come into contact with the riser. This contact improves stability during the shot process.

Conversely, a high-wrist grip focuses the contact into the dough-like wedge of flesh between you thumb and index finger, minimizing contact and allowing the "squishy" muscle to shift when the draw weight of the bow settles on the hand. It also kinks the wrist into a non-rigid movement upward.

 Your hand pressure on the grip is also important. Notice in each image how my hand is placed: slightly cupped inward, fingers not touching the riser. This minimizes contact with the bow during the shot process, allowing for a clean release of the arrow (no flinch!).

Another trend in bow design is to minimize the arrow shelf on the bow, essentially taking the throat (where my finger is pointing on the right image) higher and closer to the center point of the bow. The design allows for the hand to smother the top end of the grip, and allows for more downward riser area for a proper low-wrist grip.

The take-away from this is, if you have never tried a low-wrist or medium-low-wrist grip, to try it head to head with your current set up. Pay close attention to you shooting form with each shot and see the difference!

One final grip hint: We are approaching the cold late season, and most hunters tend to grab their bow and run to the field with a few more layers on, including gloves. Understand that every layer you add, whether it's an outer shell with thick arms, or a thin pair of gloves, place more distance between you and your bows fit. A difference of 1/4" on the bowhand because of a glove, coupled with another 1/4" of padding the release on the wrist can make a big difference in the field. So, be sure to shoot prior to season with all the layers you intend to hunt with!

The Mid-season Dust-off

Ah, Fall. That magical time of the year when the tree colors change, the weather turns crisp, and a bowhunters dreams are once again rekindled.

I say "once again," because following an enthusiastic early season of chasing bulls, bucks and bear, the inevitable season's end comes all too quickly.

So we hunters wait. We scratch away the time with trail camera outings, forum posts about tips and tactics, and hopefully continue our shooting regiment...Or do we?

It's time to be honest; Do you shoot your bow consistently following the early season rush? I mean, it was dialed-in perfectly, so why change perfect, right? This sentiment is common amongst many bowhunters around the country who hang up their bow during the month or more between seasons, and it can lead to major headaches heading into the late season.

I don't know about your part of the country, but here in the Pacific Northwest the shift from warm September days to the frozen November late season can spell disaster for a fine-tuned archery setup. So how do you avoid what I like to call the "mid-season dust-off"?

The Plan:

1. The easiest plan is a consistent one. Continue your shooting regiment as you have prior to early season (and hopefully year round!) Switch back to field points during the mid-season hiatus to save your arrows from being sliced and diced. Trust me, there's plenty of time to switch back to your broadheads, and it really doesn't take long at all. To make the transition easier, try this:

*Make sure you mark the vanes, by number, of each arrow you plan to hunt with.

*Likewise, when you remove each broadhead from the arrow be sure to mark it with the same number. Simple fix!

Knowing your broadheads is the key to having confidence in your shooting rig.

That way when you assemble them again for a quick broadhead session in mid-November you already know the broadhead in-hand is tailored to the arrow. Most hunters realize the importance of finding the proper broadhead-arrow combination, and that if one head fails to fly perfectly with one arrow, that it is wise to try another from the pack to see if it works better. Yes, broadhead ferrules (the main body of the broadhead) can vary ever so slightly right out of the package. So try the broadhead-switcharoo if one head fails to fly just right.

2. Shoot at least a week prior to your late season hunt! If mid-season dust-off occurs you'll need to understand what your bow is doing. What it's doing, you say? Shouldn't it be the same as earlier? No, that's not always the case. Cold weather, extra clothing layers, even your body adjusting to shooting in adverse conditions, can all play a roll in the shift from early to late season shooting.

Fine-tuned equipment in 90-degree temperatures can change dramatically in freezing conditions. Granted, the newest bows on the market can help curb some hot-to-cold whoa's, but don't count on it. The key is to shoot your bow rig in temperatures
matching (or close to) those you intend to hunt. You might be surprised what occurs during your late season practice trips, so remain calm and you'll be dialed-in in no time.

Good luck this late season, and may your arrows fly true!

One final tip: String wax. Not just for your bow string (a must here in the rainy Pacific Northwest), but for your broadheads as well. Apply a small amount of string wax to the threaded body of your broadhead ferrules to ensure they stay put inside your arrows insert.